Saturday, April 26, 2008
Shoji Project: Day 1
Posted on 4/26/2008 08:38:00 PM by Frank
Ok this thing ended up being a full blown wood working project. I used the actual tools I needed and even bought some new tools.
Tools Purchased:
- combo saw horse/work table with built modular 2 vises
- 1/4 inch chisel
- 2 18 inch clamps
- new tape measure
Tools Borrowed:
- plunge router with 1/4 inch straight bit (thanks Mike!)
- pickup truck for transport of lumber (thanks Woody!)
Materials Purchased:
- 10 2x2x8 redwood posts - 7 bucks a piece
- 6 1/4 x 1/4 x 3 poplar square dowels
Materials on Hold:
- rice paper or cloth material for screen
Ok, obviously the first thing I had to do was cut down 2 8 foot posts. The total height I'm aiming for is 6 feet. The top and bottom of the frame will overlap the sides meaning that the length I need to cut is 5ft 8in. When the top and bottom of the frame are attached they will add 4 inches giving me a total 6 ft height.
The 2 pieces I have left over from cutting the sides of the frame are 2 ft 4 inches which gives me plenty to cut my top and bottom. I want each panel to be 18 inches wide. One reason I chose the 8 ft stock was for the least wasted material possible. Each post basically lets me make half a frame - one side and one top or bottom. Proceed to cut your top/bottom.
Now we have to predrill a hole for the router so we can get our groove on... cough. I used a 1/4 inch drill bit and eyed drilling in 1/4 inches. The groove will also be a 1/4 inch.
After the pilot hole was drilled I grabbed the router and set the depth to a 1/4 inch using one of the 1/4 inch square dowels I purchased. The straight line guide was set to line up with the pilot hole as well.
Then I set the router on the pilot hole and routed away. The sides are routed end to end while the top and bottom are about an inch short on either side. You'll see what I'm talking about later.
Here is a finished top/bottom:
On the sides I made 1/4 inch notches for the cross members at 11 and 5/16ths inches apart. This gives me 5 horizontal cross members total.
BREAK TIME!!!
Predrill, screw, and countersink a 3 inch brass wood screw on the bottom and top of the frame. Remember to keep the notches on the inside.
Cut the dowels for the horiontal members to 15 and 1/2 inches. I manually marked and cut the vertical members. I dry fitted all the decorative members in the frame and here's what I ended up with.
Tilt your head 90 degrees. The top and bottom segments don't have vertical members as this is the design I decided on.
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